The Isles of Scilly sit 28 miles off Cornwall’s southwestern tip, yet feel like a different country entirely — sunnier, slower, and strikingly beautiful. St Mary’s is the largest island in the archipelago, and Hugh Town is its tiny, charming capital. Come prepared to be completely disarmed by it.
Arriving by Ship
Most cruise ships anchor offshore and tender passengers into St Mary’s Harbour, a working port with a traditional quayside feel. The tender ride itself is part of the experience — you’ll get your first glimpse of the impossibly clear turquoise water that makes this place look more Caribbean than Cornish.
Hugh Town is essentially right at the harbour’s doorstep. Step off the tender and you’re already in the thick of it — the main street, the beach, and the castle fortifications are all within easy walking distance.
Things to Do
St Mary’s punches well above its weight for a small island. Between ancient Bronze Age history, wildlife spectacles, and some of the finest beaches in England, you could easily fill a full day without breaking a sweat.
History
- Garrison Walls Walk — This 16th-century fortification circles the headland and offers panoramic views of the island chain; it’s free to walk and takes about 45 minutes at a leisurely pace.
- Star Castle Hotel — Built in 1593 in the shape of an eight-pointed star, this extraordinary building is open for drinks and lunch even if you’re not staying; worth a peek inside.
- Isles of Scilly Museum, Hugh Town — A compact but fascinating collection covering shipwrecks, archaeology, and island life; entry costs around £5 and it’s open Monday–Saturday.
Nature & Beaches
- Porthcressa Beach — Literally a two-minute walk from the town centre, this sheltered sandy arc is perfect for a barefoot stroll even on a mild day.
- Porthloo Beach & Rock Pools — Head north of town for quieter sands and excellent rock pooling; bring a bucket for the kids and expect starfish.
- Seabird & Seal Boat Trip — Local operators like Sea Seal run 90-minute wildlife trips departing from the quay to spot grey seals, puffins (in season), and gannets; tickets around £20 per adult.
Active & Exploring
- Hire a Bike from St Mary’s Bike Hire — The island circuit is about 8 miles on mostly flat lanes; bike hire costs around £12–£15 per day and is a brilliant way to reach quieter beaches.
- Peninnis Head Coastal Walk — A dramatic headland walk south of Hugh Town featuring extraordinary granite rock formations carved by Atlantic weather; free, takes about an hour return.
- Inter-Island Day Trips — Ferries run frequently to Tresco, Bryher, and St Agnes from St Mary’s Quay; Tresco Abbey Garden alone (entry £20) is worth planning your whole visit around.
What to Eat
The food scene in Hugh Town is small but genuinely good, leaning hard into local seafood and Cornish produce. Don’t even think about leaving without eating something from the sea.
- Crab sandwiches from the Harbourfront — Fresh dressed crab on thick white bread from local vendors near the quay; around £8–£10 and utterly non-negotiable.
- Juliet’s Garden Restaurant — A beloved local spot a short walk from town serving lunches with incredible sea views; mains around £14–£18; book ahead if possible.
- Scillonian fish and chips — Mumford’s chippy on Garrison Lane does proper battered fish; expect to pay around £10–£12 for a full portion.
- Local pasties from the bakery — Pick up a hand-crimped Cornish pasty from the High Street bakery for around £4–£5; ideal shore-day fuel.
- Ales from the Scilly Ales Brewery — Look for their beers on tap at local pubs; the Islander Pale Ale is a standout and reflects the island’s maritime character.
Shopping
Hugh Town’s main street is compact but genuinely worth browsing. Local crafts, artisan jewellery inspired by the island’s flora, and handmade ceramics make for far better souvenirs than the usual seaside tat. Look out for pieces featuring the white narcissus — the Scilly-grown flower that gives these islands much of their winter income.
Avoid generic Cornish fudge and trinkets that you could buy anywhere in the southwest. Instead, hunt for seaglass jewellery, local photography prints, and botanical artwork from island makers sold in the small independent galleries near the town square.
Practical Tips
- Currency — British pounds sterling; card payments are widely accepted but carry some cash for smaller vendors and beach stalls.
- Tipping — Not mandatory but rounding up or leaving 10% in restaurants is appreciated.
- Getting around — The island is very walkable; hire a bike for maximum freedom or join one of the open-top bus tours that operate seasonally.
- Best time to go ashore — Get off the tender early to secure a bike and beat queues at popular cafés.
- Weather — Layers are essential even in summer; Atlantic winds can surprise you even on a sunny day.
- Mobile signal — Coverage is patchy outside Hugh Town; download offline maps before you leave the ship.
- How long you need — A full day is ideal; four hours is the minimum if you want beaches, lunch, and a decent walk.
St Mary’s is the kind of place that makes you quietly start calculating whether you could feasibly live there — pack your sense of wonder accordingly.
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📍 Getting to St Mary's Island England, Hugh Town, Scilly Isles
Use the interactive map below to explore the port area and plan your route from the terminal.
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