Murshidabad Was Once Richer Than London β€” Here’s How to See Its Forgotten Mughal Palaces in a Day

Quick Facts: Port: Murshidabad (Ganga/Bhagirathi Riverfront) | Country: India | Terminal: No formal cruise terminal β€” vessels dock at Berhampore Ghat or Nizamat Ghat depending on itinerary | Dock (no tendering required on river cruises) | Distance to main sights: 1–6 km from riverfront ghats | Time zone: IST (UTC+5:30)

Murshidabad sits on the eastern bank of the Bhagirathi River in West Bengal, serving as the primary stop on the Ganges/Hooghly river cruise circuit between Kolkata and Farakka. This was the capital of the last independent Nawab of Bengal β€” a city that, in 1756, reportedly held more wealth than the entire city of London β€” and almost every stone here tells that story. The single most important planning tip: start at Hazarduari Palace when it opens at 10:00 AM and work outward from there, or you’ll spend half your day backtracking across town.

Port & Terminal Information

Murshidabad does not have a purpose-built cruise terminal in the conventional sense. River cruise vessels β€” most commonly operated by Antara Luxury River Cruises, Assam Bengal Navigation, and Pandaw Cruises β€” tie up at one of several working river ghats, most commonly Nizamat Ghat (adjacent to the Hazarduari Palace complex) or Berhampore Ghat, approximately 11 km south of the main palace district.

  • Nizamat Ghat is the preferred stop for vessels completing the Kolkata–Murshidabad run, placing you literally within a 5-minute walk of Hazarduari Palace β€” the single biggest advantage of this anchorage.
  • Berhampore Ghat is used by some larger or lower-draft vessels; from here you’ll need transport (see below) to reach the main sights.
  • Facilities at the ghats are minimal. There are no ATMs, no Wi-Fi, no luggage storage, and no formal tourist information booth directly at the river landing. Your ship’s onboard concierge is your best practical resource before stepping ashore.
  • The nearest ATM cluster is along Nawab Bahadur’s Institution Road in Berhampore town, roughly 1 km from the ghat, and inside the Hazarduari Palace compound area (SBI branch nearby).
  • Find your approximate landing point on [Google Maps](https://www.google.com/maps/search/Murshidabad+cruise+terminal) to orient yourself before disembarking.

A note for independent travellers arriving overland: Murshidabad is also reachable from Berhampore Court Railway Station (served by trains from Kolkata’s Sealdah Station, approx. 3–3.5 hours, β‚Ή100–₹300 depending on class). Some cruisers overnight in Kolkata pre- or post-cruise and arrange a private day transfer.

Getting to the City

Photo by RUPDEEP MUKHERJEE on Pexels
  • On Foot β€” If your vessel docks at Nizamat Ghat, you can walk to Hazarduari Palace in under 10 minutes. The Imambara, Medina Mosque, and Katra Mosque are all within a 1.5 km walkable radius of this ghat along reasonably flat roads. Wear closed shoes β€” the path from ghat to palace involves an uneven stone approach and occasional puddles near the river embankment.
  • Cycle Rickshaw β€” The most practical and atmospheric way to get around Murshidabad town. A short hop (Nizamat Ghat to Katra Mosque, for example) costs β‚Ή30–₹60. A full half-day of riding with a rickshaw-walla who knows the town runs β‚Ή300–₹500 and is absolutely worth it β€” many drivers double as informal guides and know which monuments are open on which days.
  • Auto-Rickshaw (Tuk-Tuk) β€” Shared autos run fixed routes between Berhampore town and the Hazarduari area for β‚Ή10–₹20 per seat. A private auto from Berhampore Ghat to Hazarduari Palace costs approximately β‚Ή100–₹150 and takes 20–30 minutes depending on traffic.
  • Taxi / App Cab β€” Ola operates in this area, though availability can be patchy. A pre-arranged private car (ask your ship’s concierge or a local hotel to book) from Berhampore to the main Nizamat palace complex runs β‚Ή300–₹500 one-way. There are no Ubers. Scam tip: agree on the fare before you get in any vehicle that lacks a meter β€” it’s standard practice here, not a red flag, but don’t get in without a confirmed price.
  • Hop-On Hop-Off β€” There is no HOHO bus service in Murshidabad.
  • Rental Car/Scooter β€” Not recommended for a shore day. Road conditions are variable, signage is in Bengali, and the distances involved are best handled by local transport. A hired car with a local driver for the full day (booked through your ship or a Kolkata-based tour operator) costs β‚Ή2,500–₹4,000 and takes all the logistical stress out of the day.
  • Ship Shore Excursion β€” Worth it if your vessel offers a guided Hazarduari + Nasipur + Katra Mosque combination, especially if you’re arriving at Berhampore Ghat rather than Nizamat. The ship’s historians or local guides who work these routes are frequently excellent β€” this is one of those rare ports where the official excursion offers real interpretive value beyond what you’d piece together independently. For pre-cruise independent bookings, a [private guided tour of Murshidabad from Kolkata](https://www.viator.com/search/Murshidabad) covering the historical betrayal narrative is outstanding for context. 🎟 Book: Private tour of Murshidabad from Kolkata about the great betrayal

Top Things to Do in Murshidabad, India

Murshidabad rewards curious, historically-minded travellers: this is a UNESCO-tentative heritage zone packed with Mughal, Nawabi, and colonial-era architecture, street-level craft traditions, and riverfront atmosphere that most Indian tourists haven’t even discovered yet. Here’s what to prioritise.

Must-See

1. Hazarduari Palace (β‚Ή10 for Indians / β‚Ή200 for foreign nationals) β€” The name means “Palace of a Thousand Doors” β€” there are actually 1,000 real and false doors, plus a collection of Nawabi weapons, paintings, palanquins, European chandeliers, and the infamous silver throne. This 1837 Italianate palace is the centrepiece of the entire Murshidabad visit and can absorb 1.5–2 hours easily. Photography of the interior exhibits requires a β‚Ή500 camera permit. Book a [guided Murshidabad tour on Viator](https://www.viator.com/search/Murshidabad) if you want the full political history of the Nawabs explained properly. 🎟 Book: Majestic Murshidabad: A Private Day Tour from Kolkata Open Tuesday–Sunday, 10:00 AM–5:00 PM; closed Fridays and national holidays.

2. Imambara (Nizamat Imambara) (free) β€” Directly adjacent to Hazarduari Palace and part of the same palace compound, this is the largest Imambara in Bengal β€” a soaring ceremonial hall used for Muharram processions. The 1847 structure holds an enormous silver tazia (ceremonial replica of a tomb) and dozens of hand-beaten silver and gold artefacts. Allow 30–45 minutes. Modest dress required β€” women should carry a scarf to cover hair.

3. Katra Mosque (free) β€” Built by Nawab Murshid Quli Khan in 1724, this was the first significant structure in the city and doubles as the Nawab’s own mausoleum β€” he is buried, by his own wish, beneath the entrance staircase so that visitors would forever walk over him in humility. That detail alone is worth the 20-minute rickshaw ride from Hazarduari. The mosque is partially ruined but hauntingly beautiful; climb the remaining minaret for sweeping views across the rooftops. Allow 45 minutes.

4. Nasipur Palace (Nashipur Rajbari) (β‚Ή20–₹50) β€” A crumbling, vine-draped 18th-century Hindu raja’s palace on the west bank of the Bhagirathi, accessible by a 5-minute ferry crossing (β‚Ή5–₹10 per person). It’s less visited than Hazarduari, which means you may well have it almost to yourself. The decaying grandeur β€” peeling frescoes, tilting pillars, a courtyard full of pigeons β€” is extraordinary. Allow 1 hour including the ferry. Confirm opening hours locally as they are irregular.

5. Plassey (Palashi) Battlefield (free) β€” 50 km north of Murshidabad, this is the site of the 1757 Battle of Plassey where Robert Clive and the East India Company defeated Nawab Siraj ud-Daulah (with the treachery of Mir Jafar) and effectively handed India to the British. There is a modest monument and memorial park β€” the scale of the historical significance vastly outweighs the physical site, which is why having a guide who can narrate the betrayal story transforms this stop completely. A [private full-day tour from Kolkata covering the great betrayal](https://www.viator.com/search/Murshidabad) includes Plassey as a key stop. 🎟 Book: Private tour of Murshidabad from Kolkata about the great betrayal Requires a car; allow 3 hours total with travel.

Beaches & Nature

6. Bhagirathi Riverfront & Ghats (free) β€” Murshidabad sits where the Bhagirathi (a distributary of the Ganges) curves elegantly past the palace complex, and the ghats are lovely in early morning light β€” boats loading terracotta pots, dhobis washing linens, the occasional fisherman casting nets. It’s not a beach destination, but the river walks here have a meditative quality. Best experienced at dawn, 6:00–8:00 AM, before the heat builds. Allow 30–45 minutes to simply wander.

7. Jalangi River Confluence (free) β€” A 12 km drive north of town brings you to the point where the Jalangi River meets the Bhagirathi β€” a remarkably peaceful spot with local boat traffic and riverside egret colonies. If your ship offers a boat excursion on the Hooghly/Bhagirathi river system, take it; the view of the palace complex from the water at dusk is exceptional. The [Hooghly River Dinner Cruise](https://www.viator.com/search/Murshidabad) from Kolkata offers a sense of what this riverine world looks like by night. 🎟 Book: Hooghly River Dinner Cruise

Day Trips

8. Baranagar Terracotta Temples (free) β€” Just 8 km south of central Murshidabad near Jiaganj, the village of Baranagar contains a cluster of 18th-century terracotta temples with intricate panel carvings depicting scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata β€” craftsmanship as fine as Bishnupur but with a fraction of the visitors. The Char Bangla Temple and Rani Bhabani Temple are the highlights. A rickshaw or auto-rickshaw can get you here in 20 minutes from the palace complex. Allow 1–1.5 hours on-site.

9. Jiaganj and Azimganj (Twin Towns) (free) β€” These twin towns facing each other across the river are the heart of Murshidabad’s Marwari merchant heritage, and their 19th-century merchant mansions (havelis) are extraordinary β€” ornate plasterwork, Italian marble floors, and hand-painted ceilings, many still inhabited by descendants of the original merchant families. Cross by hand-pulled ferry for β‚Ή5. A leisurely walk through Azimganj’s market streets is a genuine highlight. Allow 1.5–2 hours.

Family Picks

10. Hazarduari Palace Grounds (included with palace ticket) β€” The landscaped lawns and moat surrounding the palace make a good spot for children to decompress between monument visits. The deer park adjacent to the compound (entry β‚Ή10) is small but well-maintained, and the scale of the palace building itself tends to genuinely impress younger visitors. The armoury inside the palace β€” with its collection of Nawabi daggers, flintlock pistols, and tiger-hunting rifles β€” is a predictable hit with kids aged 8 and up.

11. Boat Ride on the Bhagirathi (β‚Ή50–₹200 per person) β€” Local wooden rowboats and small motorboats are available for hire at Nizamat Ghat and the steps below Hazarduari for short river trips. For children, crossing to Nasipur by ferry (β‚Ή5–₹10) and exploring the ruined palace feels like a genuine adventure. Negotiate a return fare before boarding any private boat.

Off the Beaten Track

12. Motijheel (Pearl Lake) and Clive’s House (free / nominal) β€” 3 km south of Hazarduari, this crescent-shaped oxbow lake was once the pleasure garden of Nawab Siraj ud-Daulah, and Robert Clive lived here after the Battle of Plassey. The lake is now overgrown and atmospheric; the so-called “Clive’s House” is a tumbledown ruin that almost no package tourists visit. The juxtaposition of triumphant imperial history with a quietly decaying landscape is quietly moving. Allow 45 minutes.

13. Kathgola Palace and Gardens (β‚Ή30–₹50) β€” A 19th-century Jain merchant’s palace on the Azimganj side, featuring an unusual Italian-style garden with topiary, a private lake, and lavishly painted interior rooms. The Jain temple within the compound is still active. Rarely visited by foreign tourists. Open most days 9:00 AM–5:00 PM; confirm locally. Allow 1 hour.

14. Silk Weaving Workshops, Jiaganj (free to enter) β€” Murshidabad was historically the silk capital of Bengal β€” Murshidabad silk (locally called Katan) is a geographical indication product, lighter and more lustrous than Banaras silk. Several family workshops in Jiaganj still weave on handlooms and welcome visitors who ask politely. There’s no formal tour structure β€” just walk the backstreets near the main market, follow the sound of the looms, and you’ll find them. Expect warm hospitality and a gentle sales pitch.

What to Eat & Drink

Photo by Avro Dutta on Pexels

Murshidabad’s food culture is a fascinating blend of Mughal court cuisine (rich, fragrant biryanis and kormas descended from the Nawabs’ royal kitchens) with Bengali riverine cooking β€” freshwater fish is everywhere, mustard oil is foundational, and sweets are taken extremely seriously. The local Murshidabadi biryani is distinct from Kolkata-style: typically cooked with potatoes and eggs as well as mutton, with a lighter, more floral saffron note.

  • Murshidabadi Mutton Biryani β€” The city’s signature dish; try it at Hotel Samrat near Berhampore town centre or at any dhaba surrounding the Hazarduari market gate. β‚Ή120–₹200 per plate.
  • Ilish Bhapa (Steamed Hilsa Fish) β€” Hilsa caught fresh from the Bhagirathi, steamed in mustard paste and banana leaf; available at local Bengali dhabas near the ghat. Seasonal (best July–October). β‚Ή150–₹300 per portion.
  • Kalo Jam β€” A local variant of the sweet gulab jamun, darker and denser, available at sweet shops throughout the bazaar area. β‚Ή5–₹10 per piece.
  • Mihidana and Siteabhog β€” Twin sweets with geographical indication status specific to Berhampore/Murshidabad: mihidana is tiny saffron-scented fried globules of gram flour in syrup; siteabhog is delicate white rice-flour vermicelli. Buy both at Bancharam Modak shop on Nawab Bahadur’s Institution Road β€” it has been making them for over a century. β‚Ή80–₹150 per box.
  • Chai at a Ghat Stall β€” A small glass of sweet milky tea from the chai wallahs who set up

🎟️ Things to Book in Advance

These highly-rated experiences fill up fast β€” book before you arrive to avoid missing out.

Hooghly River Dinner Cruise

Hooghly River Dinner Cruise

Take in some of East India's most famous and sacred landmarks from a scenic viewpoint: aboard a boat on the Hooghly River! Branching off the……

⏱ 3 hours  |  From USD 25.79

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Private tour of Murshidabad from Kolkata about the great betrayal

Private tour of Murshidabad from Kolkata about the great betrayal

β˜…β˜…β˜…β˜…β˜† (8 reviews)

In this 2days 1 night tour from Kolkata, we will visit Murshidabad, the old capital of Bengal. We will relive the history of Murshidabad where……

⏱ 48 hours  |  From USD 370.00

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Majestic Murshidabad: A Private Day Tour from Kolkata

Majestic Murshidabad: A Private Day Tour from Kolkata

Embark on a mesmerizing day tour from Kolkata to the historical gem of Murshidabad. The journey begins at 7:00 am with a picturesque drive through……

From USD 126.00

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πŸ“ Getting to Murshidabad, India

Use the interactive map below to explore the port area and plan your route from the terminal.

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