Few cruise stops carry the weight of history quite like Îles du Salut, a small archipelago off the coast of French Guiana. Most people know the name “Devil’s Island” from films and folklore, but the reality of this place — lush, hauntingly beautiful, and steeped in colonial brutality — is far more complex and compelling. Stepping ashore here is one of the most genuinely unforgettable experiences in Caribbean and South American cruising.
Arriving by Ship
Îles du Salut (the “Islands of Salvation”) sits roughly 15 kilometres off the coast of Kourou in French Guiana, an overseas territory of France. Your ship will anchor offshore, and you’ll be tendered in to Île Royale, the largest and most visited of the three islands — the others being Île Saint-Joseph and the infamous Île du Diable (Devil’s Island).
The approach alone is cinematic. Dense jungle tumbles right down to rocky coastlines, and the warm, turquoise water contrasts sharply with the crumbling stone prison walls visible from the tender. Be aware that the currents around these islands are notoriously strong — swimming between islands is genuinely dangerous and claimed lives even among prisoners who attempted escape.
Things to Do
The islands served as France’s brutal penal colony from 1852 to 1953, and the ruins are remarkably preserved. On Île Royale, you can wander through the old prison buildings, guardhouses, solitary confinement cells, and the eerie hospital ruins, many of which are slowly being reclaimed by jungle vines. There’s something deeply affecting about standing inside a cell barely large enough to turn around in.
The island’s small museum offers context about the colony’s history, including the story of Alfred Dreyfus, the falsely convicted French army officer who was imprisoned here and whose case sparked one of France’s most significant political scandals. Captain Henri Charrière, author of Papillon, also served time in this archipelago — his memoir made Devil’s Island a household name worldwide.
Devil’s Island itself is visible but generally inaccessible to visitors due to rough seas and restricted access — which somehow makes it even more magnetic. You can photograph it clearly from Île Royale’s shoreline and feel the full, melancholy weight of its reputation.
Beyond history, the islands offer beautiful birdwatching. Frigatebirds and red ibis are commonly spotted, and agoutis (large, friendly rodents) roam freely around the ruins without any fear of humans.
Local Food
There is a small restaurant on Île Royale, housed in a former prison building and operated as part of a modest hotel. The menu leans on Creole-influenced French cooking — grilled fresh fish, rice dishes seasoned with local herbs, and cold Desperados or local rum to take the edge off the equatorial heat. It’s not gourmet dining, but eating a meal surrounded by jungle and colonial ruins is an experience that needs no embellishment. Coconut-based dishes and tropical fruit feature prominently, and the local honey — produced by bees on the island — is worth seeking out.
Don’t expect a wide range of options. The food scene here is intentionally simple, and that simplicity feels entirely appropriate to the setting.
Shopping
Shopping is minimal by design, and that’s actually refreshing. A small gift shop near the main prison complex sells postcards, locally produced honey, and a handful of handicrafts. Books about the penal colony’s history — including translations of Papillon — are often available and make a far more meaningful souvenir than a snow globe. Don’t expect luxury boutiques or market stalls; this island hasn’t been overly commercialised, which is part of what makes it feel so authentic.
Practical Tips
- Wear sturdy shoes. The terrain is uneven, and jungle paths can be slippery after rain.
- Bring insect repellent. This is the equatorial jungle — mosquitoes are real and persistent.
- Hydrate constantly. The humidity here is intense, especially if you’re not acclimatised to tropical climates.
- Bring cash (euros). French Guiana uses the euro, and card payment options on the island are limited.
- Respect the ruins. These are preserved historical sites, and climbing on structures is both disrespectful and genuinely unsafe.
- Check tender schedules carefully. There are no overnight options for cruise passengers, and missing the last tender back is not a situation you want to find yourself in.
Îles du Salut won’t suit every traveller — there’s no beach club, no cocktail bar, no curated Instagram experience waiting for you. What it offers instead is something rarer: genuine history, raw natural beauty, and the kind of quiet that makes you think. It’s one of those rare ports that stays with you long after the ship has sailed.
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📍 Getting to Iles Du Salut France
Use the interactive map below to explore the port area and plan your route from the terminal.
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